“They preferred the cool and clean to the carnal. Composure was valued above expression. Fashion was more about shape than color or design, and that shape was usually unhealthy. They were obsessed with an image that required effort, self-deprivation, and heels. In Los Angeles, girls who allowed themselves to be excitable, colorful, and a little bit disheveled were beautiful. In New York it was chic to be disinterested.”